Your automobile is most likely one of your largest single investments. If you've had the misfortune of having an accident, you don't want to leave your vehicle in the hands of just any "body man". If you're shopping for a quality collision repair center, you don't need to be a collision repair expert to know what to look for. You may want to watch for certain features which indicate that a business takes pride in the service it performs.

The parking area should be neat and clearly marked, with ample parking space for customers and insurance company representatives.

The office should be clean and well organized with a restroom and a comfortable seating area for customers. Employees in the office should be clean, neatly dressed and unconditionally courteous.

The shop should be well organized and well equipped with state of the art frame repair equipment. The most modern collision centers are now equipped with digital measuring systems which combine computer and laser technology to measure and pinpoint damage in your vehicle's frame and structure.

The technicians work on the dirtiest parts of your car so they'll probably be dirty every time you see them, however they should have a reasonably neat and professional appearance about them. (if you see tank tops and cut off shorts, you're probably in the wrong place!) Body technicians as well as painters should be ICAR trained and/or ASE certified and the manager should be able to show you a copy of their current certification.

If your vehicle is still drivable, you may want to schedule an appointment in advance to drop it off for repairs. This will allow the shop a few days to order any necessary parts so you won't have to wait for them later. At this time, it is also a good idea contact the insurance company that will be covering the cost of the repair to let them know what shop you've chosen and to ask any last questions you might have. If your vehicle was towed from the accident scene, most shops will arrange to have it moved to their facility. If your vehicle was towed to a repair facility, you are not under obligation to have it repaired at that same facility. As the owner of the vehicle, you are free to choose the collision repair facility that you want to trust with your vehicle.

Remember that your insurance company cannot legally insist that you use a certain repair facility even though they may suggest shops where they've had acceptable quality repairs done in the past. However, you may or may not want to accept the insurance company's recommendation as they have been known to send customers to the shop that gives them the lowest prices on acceptable quality repairs.

Remember, the insurance adjuster's job is to satisfy the customer at the lowest possible cost to the insurance company. Another point to remember is that the insurance company's recommended shop may tend to cut a few corners in the repair process to make up for the discount they are giving the insurance company. Although the insurance company's recommended repair facility may be consistently producing acceptable quality repairs, there very well may be better quality facilities in your area so it's important to shop around. You'll also want to keep in mind that most insurance adjusters are not collision repair experts, regardless of what they claim.

Before dropping off the vehicle, it will be a good idea to remove personal belongings or anything of value. Even though all the employees may be very honest people, they often remove interior parts to gain access to the damaged area or to protect the interior from damage. One misplaced item can cause a lot of hard feelings. Also, most collision shops carry insurance to cover damages to your vehicle as a result of fire, theft, or even employee carelessness, but this insurance will only cover the vehicle and its factory installed parts. Finally, one of the most common customer complaints of the decade is about melted CD's, tapes, video tapes, floppy discs and even candy. Modern collision shops are equipped with ovens used to bake fresh paint and speed the drying time. While twenty minutes at 180° F won't harm your car, it will destroy some of the things that people often keep in their cars.

If a rental car is provided by the insurance company, you may want to arrange to have the rental car delivered at the time of your appointment. In most cases, your vehicle will have to be left in the shop for several days or longer and it's usually a good idea to secure an alternate means of transportation for a few days longer than you expect to need it.

Modern vehicles' frames and structures are being built into single units, called unibodies. Unibody vehicles are designed to absorb the impact of a collision so that passengers will receive a lesser blow from the impact. In the process of absorbing the impact, the vehicle often sustains damages that are overlooked upon the first inspection of the damage. When you add the modern equipment such as power windows and door locks, air bags, etc.., you increase the possibility of overlooked damages. Overlooked damages can drastically effect the safety and handling characteristics of your vehicle so it is very important that ALL damages are located and repaired.

Once inside the shop, your vehicle's damaged area should be disassembled for a careful reinspection. Any additional damages should be reported to the insurance company immediately. If the insurance company representative insists on reinspecting the damage, the repair process could be delayed for up to 2 - 3 days. In turn, any additional damaged parts must be ordered which may lead to another delay, depending on availability. Additional delays can also result from disputes between the repair facility and the insurance company. Insurance companies often try to refuse coverage of certain operations which are required in order to properly repair the vehicle. When the shop refuses to perform those operations that were denied, the vehicle is often left sitting in the shop while the dispute is settled. Also, the insurance company may insist that "aftermarket" or "QRP" parts be used for the repair. Better quality shops are now refusing to install aftermarket parts because of the poor quality and design of these parts.

Aftermarket parts are a form of black market part that is inferior to original equipment in quality and design, but insurance companies often insist upon their use because of their low price. Aftermarket parts are not covered under factory warranty and defects to factory equipment that are related to aftermarket parts are also not covered. What this means is that if an aftermarket fender installed on your two year old car begins to rust and the rust spreads onto the car, that rust will not be covered under the factory warranty as it was caused by the aftermarket part. Therefore, with late model vehicles especially, I highly recommend you check the damage report to see that only factory (OEM) equipment is used to repair your car

Estimates, damage reports and appraisals all serve the same basic purpose. They provide an itemized list of all known accident related damage. Most writers of these reports will often refer to collision estimating guides containing part illustrations, part names and prices, flat rate labor times, and other information concerning procedures.

Some of the following terms may appear on the damage report. These terms will tell you exactly what the insurance company is paying the body shop to do to your vehicle.

R+I - Remove and Install

R+R - Remove and Replace

OH - Overhaul - Remove an assembly from the vehicle, disassemble, replace parts as needed, reassemble, install and adjust.

D+R - Disconnect and Reconnect parts at the point they are attached to the subject part. This is becoming rare as insurance companies tighten their budgets.

IO or IOH - Included Operation or Included in Overhaul. This is becoming more common all the time as insurance companies tighten their budgets.

OEM (original equipment manufacturer's) parts are original factory parts from the manufacturer of the vehicle.

LKQ (like, kind and quality) parts are used parts from a salvage yard.

QRP (quality replacement parts) parts are aftermarket or black market parts and are of an inferior quality in spite of their title.

The damage report should detail ALL accident related damage and recommended repair procedures. It should also note special circumstances which might affect the repair such as aftermarket accessories and pre-existing damage. Remember that any damage not listed on the damage report is not being paid for by the insurance company so there is no guarantee that it will be repaired. More and more all the time, technicians are refusing to repair damage that the insurance company does not pay them for and they are within their rights.

It may be a good idea to obtain a copy of the finalized damage report to ensure that all accident related damages are covered by the insurance company. If you notice any accident related damages that are not covered on the damage report, you should contact the insurance adjuster handling the claim to be sure the damage is covered by insurance and repaired. Most importantly, you should communicate with your insurance company and with your collision center. GOOD COMMUNICATION on everyone's part is the BEST way to ensure quality and feasibility for everyone.

Body, Frame & Structural Repairs

A quality collision repair facility will communicate with you about the status of your vehicle's repair. Someone from the office should go over your vehicle with you and show you exactly what is being done or what might be causing a delay, etc. Some of the insurance company recommended shops, or 'direct repair facilities' as they're known, will not contact you in the event that additional hidden damages were discovered. Some insurance companies with 'direct repair' shops do not allow those shops to discuss details with customers until they receive the insurance company's approval. By establishing communication between you and your chosen repair facility, you can help reduce delays in the repair process. By checking back with the shop every 2-3 days you can keep yourself posted on the status of the repair.

Another reason to check back with the repair facility is to see exactly how your vehicle is being repaired. It's a good idea to look your vehicle over in mid-repair to see that it is being properly returned to the manufacturer's specifications. By checking over your vehicle in mid repair, you can see areas that are ordinarily hidden from view. Watch for unusual buckles or kinks in the metal of the vehicle's structure. When bolt on parts such as doors, fenders or headlight mounting panels are installed, there should be no loose or missing bolts and all bolts should go into their original holes. (in most cases, fender bolts will be in symmetrical positions)

Parts should fit together neatly and evenly and the gaps between adjacent parts should be parallel. When you check the bolts, you should also watch for an excessive use of shims. Shims are small, flat, metal spacers used between a part and the vehicle's structure to change the position of the part. If more than one or two shims are used to make one part align to another, this is a definite indicator that the vehicle's structure was not properly repaired.

If parts of your vehicle were welded, welds should be neat and clean and should appear as though they are part of the metal. Welded areas should be sanded smooth and properly treated to protect them from corrosion. Replacement parts should be welded in the same places (no more, no less) as the original factory parts. The best quality repair facilities use spot welders much like the spot welders used on the manufacturer's assembly lines.

Seam sealer should be neatly applied at factory seams and should be a reasonably close match to factory seam sealers in texture and application. Excessive use of caulking and seam sealers may sometimes be hiding a sloppy welding job, or it could be hiding separated panels or structural parts which were not properly welded. Auto manufacturers use a lot of caulk and seam sealer and if it appears to you that the repairman is using even more than the factory, there's a strong possibility that he's got something to hide.

When you check on your vehicle's repair progress, it's also a good idea to inform the staff that you are not rushing them, but you do want to see exactly what's being done to your car. Remember that pressure to perform quickly may prompt a technician to cut corners while pressure to perform properly will often get you better results. Another thing to remember when checking back is that as soon as you notice anything leading you to believe that your vehicle is being improperly repaired, contact the body shop manager immediately and confront him or her with the problem. You may also want to contact the insurance representative who is handling the claim. If the technician making the repair is underqualified for the job, the repair process should be stopped as soon as possible.

When your car or truck is in the body shop, one of the main questions one your mind is, "Will the frame be properly repaired?" The answer is, "That depends on who repaired the frame." No matter who repairs your vehicle, it should not be repaired without the use of a PROPER measuring system. Many shops will have some sort of measuring system; a true QUALITY shop will USE the measuring system. Use of the measuring system helps the technician determine the nature and the extent of the damage to your vehicle's frame. As well, the measuring system assures the technician that he has fully returned the vehicle to factory specifications.

There are many types of measuring systems available to the collision repair industry these days and most all of them will accurately measure a vehicle's frame and structure. The most modern shops are now using digital measuring systems which will accurately measure your vehicle's frame and structure, compare the measurements to factory specifications, store the measurements in a database, and print a report of the measurements.

After your vehicle's frame has been damaged and repaired, you may feel the urge to check the frame out yourself, but maybe you're not sure what you're looking for. First, you'll need to park on a smooth, level surface and wear some old clothes because you'll have to lie on the ground. Visually inspect the frame (especially near the damage area) for unnatural looking buckles or kinks in the frame rails. Find symmetrically located rivets, bolts, or holes on the bottoms of the frame rails and use them as measuring points. Try to find two pairs of measuring points that you can access with a measuring tape and measure the "square" formed by the four measuring points. First measure from one "corner" to its opposite "corner" and then measure the distance between the other two corners. If the two measurements are the same the "square" is square, but if one measurement is longer than another then the "square" is diamond. Although this test is not guaranteed reliable, it is a good starting point.

You might also check the heights of the measuring points to see if they are consistent from side to side. Don't panic if the heights are a little bit different as these measurements may vary due to an unlevel parking surface, uneven tire pressure, a bent suspension spring, etc.

Remember that even though your vehicle may look good when you pick it up after the repair, there is still a chance it may have a bent frame. An improperly repaired frame can jeopardize the safety of the passengers as well as cause steering problems and excessive tire wear on two of your tires. Also remember that many unibody frame rails can be repaired, but it is very important that LITTLE OR NO HEAT should be used in the process. Excessive heat weakens the high strength steel used in unibody rails, reducing the amount of impact that the rail will absorb in the event of another accident.

PAINT and REFINISHING

Paint and refinishing processes are the most visible and most noticeable steps of the entire collision repair process. When you are looking for a shop to paint your car, check to see what kind of materials will be used and check to see that proper masking paper will be used. The quality of the paint materials used are as important as the quality of the painter's work. Most quality shops will have their own in house mixing system and some modern shops are equipped with computer systems in which the data base is updated with new factory color code information regularly. DuPont, PPG or Sikkens paints and primers should be used. These products can be expensive, but they have a lasting quality that can't be beaten.

Modern shops are using bio-degradable alternatives to paper and the results are quite acceptable. DON'T let anyone mask your car with newspaper unless you want to clean overspray off of it for the next two months. Newspaper often has perforations and most paints will soak right through it onto your car. Modern shops are also equipped with down draft paint booths. A down draft booth has its filtering system installed in the floor of the booth so that the exhaust fans will create a downward draft. This downward draft reduces overspray problems, removes toxic fumes from the work area and it pulls any loose, floating dust to the floor.

The shop where your vehicle is being repaired should have separate areas for body repairs and painting to prevent dust from entering the paint area as well as reduce paint overspray in the repair area. The paint shop should be clean and well lighted. All spraying should be done inside of the paint booths. The paint booths should be the cleanest part of the whole shop. The less dirt there is floating around in that little room, the less dirt you'll find in the surface of your paint job.

When a vehicle is being prepared for painting it is important to remember that the preparation of the vehicle is the most important part of the job. The way that your vehicle's surface is treated prior to the actual painting of the vehicle will directly effect the end result.

All parts that are to be painted should be thoroughly sanded with fine grit sand paper (400- 500 grit). Any areas where paint has been sanded through to the bare metal should be coated with 2-3 light coats of primer and resanded so that the metal is protected from corrosion. The amount of sanding required depends upon the condition of the paint's surface. Some cars only need a light sanding while others should be stripped completely and re-primed with a good quality primer.

Chips and scratches should be sanded out with a process called "feather edging". A chip or scratch that is improperly feather edged will show a "bull's eye" which will appear in the final finish as a group of concentric circles (more or less). In most cases these circles are barely visible, but they ARE there and they are a sign of a rushed repair.

When the sanding is finished the car is pressure washed and thoroughly blown out with a high pressure airline to remove all loose dirt so it will not blown into the paint while spraying. The car is carefully masked and parked in the paint booth where it is cleaned and degreased. I usually use a clean rag soaked with mineral spirits to wash the surface and I dry it with another clean rag. I go over the entire area to be painted twice to remove all grease and road tar, etc.

Door handles, moldings, signal lamps or reflectors, etc., should be removed when the vehicle is painted, but if the insurance company does not pay for the technician to remove these parts, they will be covered with masking tape while painting. When the car is masked up to paint, EVERYTHING that is not to be painted must be either carefully masked or removed. There should be no paint anywhere on the vehicle except on the factory painted surfaces. There should be no traces of overspray on any of the glass or chrome and the wheel openings should all be black. Even though the wheels may have been covered during painting, the wheel openings an the shocks and struts may get overspray on them.

In order to duplicate the factory finish, the painter starts with one or two coats of primer or surface sealer, two to three coats of color, pearl if needed, and finishes it all with two to three coats of clear. Clear coat is just what it sounds like, a transparent coat of paint which seals in your car's color. When the clear coat is properly applied, it dries to a smooth uniform finish with no RUNS or excessive ORANGE PEEL or DRY SPRAY. In order to obtain a smooth glossy finish, the painter applies a final "wet coat" or heavy coat of clear which maintains a wet look as it dries. If this wet coat is too wet (too heavy) it will run. The most common places where runs occur are near door and fender edges and around body lines and creases.

Orange peel and dry spray occur when the clear coat is not wet enough (heavy enough) and the tiny droplets of clear are partially dry before they land on the car's surface. Orange peel actually has the texture of an orange and, in more severe stages, has a pebbled texture like that of a brand new basketball. Dry spray will be even more course than orange peel and can even resemble the texture of sandpaper. Orange peel and dry spray most commonly occur in hard to reach areas such as the center of hoods and rooftops on trucks and other tall vehicles and low areas on the very bottom of the vehicle, although you may find orange peel anywhere on the vehicle if the job was not properly sprayed.

Without body repairs, most cars can be painted in five days or so (depending upon condition and age of vehicle). Beware of shops who promise it can be done in less than five days as there is a chance they are cutting corners somewhere. Production type paint shops such as Earl Sheib, Econo, Maaco, etc., are prime examples of this. The low price and the fast turn around lures customers into these types of paint shops, but the quality of materials used and the quality of the workmanship in such a shop leave a lot to be desired.

After the vehicle is painted, it should have a smooth, uniform finish with no runs or particles of dust in the surface. Metallic and pearl colors should have an even and uniform pattern to them. Most importantly, there should only be paint on the surfaces that are intended to be painted. When checking the car for overspray, check any door jambs in the repainted area for dry spray which will appear as a rough textured area just inside the edge of the door opening.

Upon closer inspection of the repaired areas, be on the lookout for sanding scratches which are a result of overly course sandpaper being used on the surface. If the scratches are not removed with a finer grade of sandpaper, the paint shrinks into the scratches making them visible (as well as unsightly). The most common place you might find sand scratches is in the door jambs. Open your doors, trunk, or hood and look closely at repaired areas for these signs of poor quality. Because the average body man thinks you only look at the outside of your vehicle, it is very important that you carefully inspect everything in the area where the vehicle was damaged.

Until you are completely satisfied with the quality of repairs made to your vehicle, it is not advisable to take delivery of the vehicle or to pay any deductibles or other charges for items not covered by the insurance company. Most of all BE CAREFUL WHAT YOU SIGN. Once you're satisfied with the repairs made, you can settle all accounts and take delivery of your vehicle, at which time your warranty should go into effect. Any quality shop will provide a warranty at no extra charge, covering repair related problems for at least one year. You may want to request a written copy of this warranty when you are getting your first estimate from a shop.

After you take delivery of the vehicle, wait at least two days to wash it with a mild soap and a soft sponge. Do it in the shade or else early or late in the day if possible and make sure none of the soap dries on the painted surface. After your paint job is about thirty days old it will be cured enough to put a coat of wax on it. Once again, try not to do this in direct sun, and use a good quality wax such as Meguiar's. If you use a car cover or you have add on accessories such as a front bumper bra, it's a good idea to leave it off for thirty days until the paint fully cures.